Sharp cuts and impeccable tailoring
ATELIERS AND ARTISANS
The signature elements that together form the equation for Pierre Balmain’s legendary New French Style—the strict tailoring, cinched waists, strong shoulders, perfect pleating, elaborate volumes—can all be traced back to the designer’s early training as an architect.
There is definitely a close relationship between the work of
an architect and that of the couturier. The fact that one builds in stone and the other relies on muslin, that one aims to last for centuries and the other plans for only one season—these do not constitute essential differences.
“The Parisian couture tradition of unmatched dedication to artisanal savoir-faire is what made Pierre Balmain’s pivotal post-war collections possible. And, today, that same tradition is what allows me to explore and expand upon the obsession that I share with our founder for precise, impeccable Parisian tailoring and construction.”
Olivier Rousteing
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The Architecture Of Movement
Pierre Balmain summed up his incomparable talent for ensuring that his perfectly tailored Balmain creations closely follow the curves of a moving body by proclaiming “la couture est l’architecture du movement” (dressmaking is the architecture of movement).
A MODERN SPIN ON AN INCREDIBLE LEGACY
Balmain’s singular heritage— including, of course, Monsieur Balmain’s impeccable tailoring— remains very present in every one of Olivier Rousteing’s runways. But the house’s signature skills are always updated for the 21st century. For example, the atelier once again demonstrated its formidable skills through its one-ofa- kind treatment of Atsuko Kudo latex for the Fall 2020 runway — expertly cutting and tailoring the material, in order to offer a surprising and intelligent sensuality.
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BALMAIN’S SLEEK ‘60S TAILORED SILHOUETTE FOR MEN STILL INSPIRES
“Our Fall 2023 Men’s Collection looks to Balmain’s first men’s designs, from the mid-1960s. Those early offerings were marked by a sleek and sophisticated style that relied on the atelier’s exceptional tailoring skills for slimfit, sharply cut suits that reflected the cool sophistication of Saint Germain jazz artists. Those were, of course, a massive departure from the conventional suiting ideas of the time.”
Olivier Rousteing
RENAISSANCE COUTURE BY BEYONCÉ X BALMAIN
“At the same time that Beyoncé and I were working on this special couture collaboration, my team and I were finishing up Balmain’s Fall 2023 collections, which were strongly focused on Monsieur Balmain’s legacy. For those men’s and women’s ready-to-wear collections, we drew our inspirations directly from the house’s rich archives. And, as you can see, our founder’s love for sharp cuts and precise Parisian tailoring is something that definitely influenced our Renaissance Couture offerings, as well.”
Olivier Rousteing
NO LONGER A SLEEPING GIANT
“When I interviewed at Balmain, my soonto- be-colleagues explained that this was a “sleeping giant” of a house, resting upon a wealth of forgotten riches,” notes Olivier Rousteing. “But it wasn’t until I was first presented with our archive’s aweinspiring collection of sketches, press clippings, videos and creations that I actually began to understand what they were talking about—and I was completely blown away. Our Fall 2023 Runway, so inspired by Monsieur Balmain’s impeccable tailoring, powerful graphics and refined embellishments, helps make clear that this house is, once again, very aware of and inspired by its vast riches.”
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BEFORE BREAKING ANY RULES, YOU NEED TO HAVE TRULY MASTERED THEM
“Balmain knows the power of pushing limits. While every season’s offerings continue to respect the impressive construction and precise tailoring that this house long ago mastered, our collections also always push forward, making evident the power behind surprising breaks with traditions—creating new silhouettes and styles that reflect the way a new generation wishes to dress today.”
Olivier Rousteing
AN INTIMATE PRESENTATION, ALLOWING FOR CLOSE INSPECTION
With Fall 2023’s intimate, smaller presentation, Olivier Rousteing aimed to steer clear of any fashion-week hyperbole and, instead, shine the spotlight directly upon the enduring power and singular sustainability of timeless designs created by Paris’ finest artisans and tailors. It was very evident to all the guests present that Balmain builds directly upon an impressive legacy, creating collections for today, while always preparing for tomorrow.
ARTISANAL SAVOIR FAIRE
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