OLIVIER ROUSTEING: MY BALMAIN FALL 2023 COLLECTIONS
SEASON 2, EPISODE 7:
BUILDING UPON AN INCREDIBLE LEGACY
Olivier Rousteing:
"My last runway surprised more than a few. Coverage of previous Balmain shows often focused on the fashion-week festivals and spectacles—but for our Fall 2023 Balmain Women’s designs, my team and I were determined to steer clear of the fireworks. Instead, we shone a single, perfectly directed spotlight upon the extraordinary possibilities offered to us whenever we celebrate this house’s rich heritage. We turned the volume way down, channeling the hushed atmosphere of Pierre Balmain’s intimate post-war couture salon presentations. By limiting the number of invitees, we allowed each guest the opportunity to better appreciate, close-up, just how our atelier’s impressive craftsmanship made possible the collection’s many surprising, fresh and modern spins on our founder’s signature silhouettes and this house’s most cherished codes.”
AN INTIMATE PRESENTATION FOCUSES ON IMPRESSIVE DETAILS
Olivier Rousteing:
“I’ve always loved that iconic photograph, shot by Horst, of Gertrude Stein and her big white poodle Basket seated in front of a Balmain house model wearing a key look from Pierre Balmain’s first collection. Stein had been asked by Horst where in Paris she wanted to pose and she requested that he shoot her inside our flagship’s showroom, recreating the moment when she was introduced to her close friend’s ‘New French Style.’ And it’s Horst’s photo that made me start thinking that our most recent men’s and women’s collections needed to be presented just like that, echoing the ambiance of Pierre Balmain’s earliest post-war couture presentations—an intimate setting, with just a few people present, allowing all present the luxury of seeing close-up all those incredible details and precise Parisian tailoring made possible by this house’s skilled artisans.
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Click here for more information and images from the house’s unique Fall 2023 runway for women.
Click here for more information and images from the house’s intimate Fall 2023 presentation for men.
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BALMAIN’S UNMISTAKABLE SILHOUETTE
Olivier Rousteing:
“Balmain’s archives make it easy to see how our founder’s passion for architecture influenced his work. The signature elements of Pierre Balmain’s 1945 New French Style and, later, his Jolie Madame silhouette—the strict tailoring, cinched waists, strong shoulders, perfect pleating, elaborate volumes—can all be traced back to his early architectural training. Balmain often underlined the connection between his two obsessions, noting that “there is definitely a close relationship between the work of an architect and that of the couturier. The fact that one builds in stone and the other relies on muslin, that one aims to last for centuries and the other for only one season—those do not constitute essential differences.” These sketches of mid-century Balmain collections helped inspire some of my runway’s strongest silhouettes.”
UPDATING CLASSIC BALMAIN CODES
Olivier Rousteing:
“For this collection, my team and I have celebrated this house’s distinctive codes. We riffed on Pierre Balmain’s love of one of France’s most classic motifs: petits pois (polka dots), which, season after season, our founder cleverly and elegantly rendered in all possible sizes and configurations. We’ve also pushed the limits of one of his favorite luxury touches—perfectly embroidered pearl ornaments. And Pierre Balmain’s bold inventiveness with the size and the placement of elegant bows inspired some of our strongest offerings. Finally, this season we reintroduce a classic house pattern. The motif seems to have been originally inspired by the endless repetition of contrasting marble squares laid out inside the passageways of Versailles and the Loire Valley châteaux. Pierre Balmain channeled that classic architectural embellishment into a truly regal house pattern, which we’ve rely on now to cover some of next fall’s strongest silhouettes and accessories.
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A HISTORIC COUTURE COLLECTION
Olivier Rousteing:
"At the same time that Beyonce and I were working together on our Renaissance Couture collection, my team and I were finishing up Balmain’s most recent Paris Fashion Week runways and presentations, which were strongly focused on our founder’s incredible legacy. So, for both those men’s and women’s fall collections and our couture partnership, we drew much of our inspiration directly from Balmain’s rich archives. And, obviously, there was a lot to inspire us! That treasury is overflowing with more than 75 years of extraordinary creations—beginning with the designs from the house’s pivotal first presentation, when Pierre Balmain wowed the fashion world with his bold New French Style and helped set post-war Parisian fashion down a new pathway. And, to continue that focus on history… well, I can’t help but be thrilled by the history-making aspects of my design partnership with Beyoncé. This appears to be the first time that a Black woman has overseen the couture offering from a historic Parisian house. And those designs were created in partnership with the first Black man to ever oversee all the collections at a historic Parisian house. Let’s hope those two firsts help inspire plenty of others. In addition, I am certain that these Renaissance designs, once they enter into the house’s archives, are destined to inspire generations of future Balmain designers.
Click here to view more images from and information about the Renaissance Couture Collection, jointly created by Beyoncé and Olivier Rousteing.
BALMAIN’S FALL 2023 CAMPAIGN
Olivier Rousteing:
"For our Balmain Fall 2023 campaign, the same sharp focus on heritage and craftsmanship that was first viewed on our fashion-week runway, continues to drive us. So, we’re steering completely clear of props, dream locations and CGI—for this season’s images and videos, the camera is simply and exquisitely centered on precise Parisian tailoring and architectural volumes, helping make it very clear that this collection builds directly upon Pierre Balmain’s audacious and enduring ‘New French Style.’
Olivier Rousteing:
“Finding the right partner for this campaign was easy. I’m a big fan of the richly layered creations of Rafael Pavarotti, and I knew that his distinctive vision, with its mastery of light, color and texture, would offer the ideal pathway to make very clear the ever-bold power of Balmain’s singular craftsmanship, codes and cuts. I could not be happier with the final result. The campaign’s brilliant tones, lustrous shine and stunning models perfectly illustrate today’s modern Balmain, which superbly melds together an impressive legacy, deeply rooted in couture’s traditions and craft, with the beauty of twenty-first century Paris.”
Rafael Pavarotti:
“Developing the concept for this campaign with Olivier was a deeply creative experience. By highlighting the heritage of the house of Balmain, we were able to create something different, beautiful and timeless. I couldn't be happier with the results.”
Campaign Credits:
Creative Director: Olivier Rousteing- Photography: Rafael Pavarotti
- Casting: Anita Bitton
Stylist: Charlotte Stockdale and Katie Lyall - Hair: Eugene Souleiman
Make-Up: Chiao Li