GO WEST, BALMAIN!
OLIVIER ROUSTEING ON HIS BALMAIN RESORT 2024 COLLECTIONS

Olivier Rousteing:

Maybe it’s because of the six months that I just spent working on a couture collection with Houston’s most famous daughter. Or perhaps it’s due to all those recent meetings regarding our plans to soon open new Balmain boutiques in Dallas and Houston. I can’t say exactly why, but, lately, the distinctive, bold style of the American cowboy has been very much on my mind.

Olivier Rousteing:

Just like everyone else around the world, I spent a lot time during my childhood watching the legendary American Westerns. Their stunning American Southwest locations may have been light years away from my daily reality in France’s Sud-Ouest—but, of course, the compelling plot lines of those classics could never be limited to just one certain time or place. They focus on the same universal messages, questions and themes that form the basis of intriguing myths and tales that have been told for thousands of years, all across the world. That’s what’s behind their incredible power. And they’ve clearly had a long-lasting power over me, with my Balmain collections returning more than a few times to the liberating and rebellious spirit of America's Far West.”

Olivier Rousteing:

But for this collection, I’ve returned to that style with a changed viewpoint. After having had the opportunity to work on The Harder They Fall—the modern Western produced by Jay-Z and directed by Jeymes Samuel—I’m now aware that the films of my youth projected images that were far from the reality of the 19^th-Century West. Those classics literally whitewashed an incredible history. The contributions of the Mexican Vaqueros to the creation of a unique culture went largely ignored. And the all-white casts definitely did not reflect the true composition of America’s cowboys—in fact, historians estimate that perhaps as many as one of every four American cowboys was a Black man, since many newly freed slaves headed west after the Civil War, in hopes of a better life.

Olivier Rousteing:

In addition to celebrating the long-ignored diversity of the American West, our Balmain Resort collections build upon a compelling legacy of Pierre Balmain, who melded his passion for American dynamism with this house’s mastery of French craftsmanship. Soon after presenting his premiere collection in 1945, Pierre Balmain set off on the first of his many travels across the United States, dutifully following the instructions of his friend Gertrude Stein, who stressed the need for him to introduce his New French Style to all parts of her homeland. His autobiography recounts several of those trips to America, including one to Dallas, accompanied by Grace Kelly and Edith Piaf. And, after each of his excursions, he returned to his Parisian atelier, eager to begin experimenting with the inspirations that he had picked up during his travels—fresh concepts for cuts and new materials—which he would find ways of incorporating into his couture designs.”

Olivier Rousteing:

So, as we riffed upon the colors, cuts and adornments of the Wild West, my team and I were determined to continue maintaining a strong focus on the traditions of this house. Throughout, it's easy to spot the many ways this collection grafts together those two distinct traditions. The decorative motifs, stitching and cut-outs associated with the finest frontier tooled leather are perfectly complemented by Parisian Baroque embellishments. The house’s signature black-and-white pairings are set alongside pastels inspired by spectacular arid landscapes. And hypnotizing swaying fringes offer impeccable final adornments for ensembles looking to both couture salons and frontier saloons.

Olivier Rousteing:

I’m happy to see how wonderfully our atelier’s Parisian tailoring and sharp cuts work for this western excursion. Perfectly fit, cropped jackets channel the Jolie Madame silhouette and the strict lines of Monsieur Balmain’s favorite, just-below-the-knee skirt have been transformed into a perfect couture spin on gaucho pants. In addition, our Resort Collection hats and jewelry perfectly mirror the finest finishing touches of Pierre Balmain’s post-war presentations